Middelburg 1000 years young

by Wout Uythoven

 

Middelburg 1000 years young
Middelburg is approximately 1000 years old – a respectable age, apparently reaches without the ailments of old age. The town’s character however, is young and very much alive; an environment for people on their way to the 21st century. Those who have an eye for it can find an abundance of 10 centuries of history on the streets. It has a rich and eventful past, which provides the town with character.
In Middelburg one is surrounded by dignity, sphere and beauty whether you’re an inhabitant or a visitor… for no matter how you look at it, it is a beautiful town.

Aerial view the past recorded
An aerial photo of Middelburg ( 1 ) and an old map ( 2 ) still bear a great resemblance to one another. The history of the town has been determined forever through the distinctive lay-out of the streetplan.
Even in roman times these regions were inhabited, but then came periods when the sea took control, halting history right into the Middle Ages.
Initially Middelburg came into being during the course of the 9th century, in the time of the Carolingians, Charles the Great and his successors, who ruled over large parts of Europe.
They were times of economical flourishment, however modest, which attracted the Norsemen, who were all too willing to procure their share of prosperity in these regions. Especially the coastal areas suffered from the unexpected and unwelcome visits of the Scandinavians in their dragon ships.
Everywhere along the coast simple defences were built, modes settlements surrounded by a moat and wooden stockade. On Walcheren there were several of these fortresses or burgs: Domburg, the dune burg in the North; the Southern burg, Souburg and one in the middle of the island. The “burg in the middle” formed the very beginning of the town of Middelburg, a simple fortification erected on a slightly elevated spot, safely protected in a bend of the River Arne.
A few centuries later the first monks settled on that same spot and records from 1122 mention a Maria Monastery, which was made an Abbey shortly afterwards.
The priests from Middelburg reclaimed large parts of Zeeland from the water. Following orders from their Flemish Mother Abbeys, they settled in the marshy and sparsely populated areas, spreading their faith and building dykes.
Fishermen and merchants settled around the monastery in Walcheren’s middle burg. It was the first step towards the formation of a real town.
Hardly anything remains of these earliest buildings. Perhaps something in the Abbey itself, which has often been extended and beautified during the course of the centuries ( 3 ). Around this historical town centre, where the conspicuous Lange Jan can still be distinguished from afar as an urban symbol, the town expanded in increasingly wider circles ( 4 ) . As can be seen on the old maps, or in real….

Local history
Although no longer visible, most of the town centre was destroyed by bombs on the 17ht of May 1940 ( 5 ). No less than 591 buildings were reduced to rubble and when Walcheren was liberated in 1944, which involved the flooding of the island, additional damage was sustained to the buildings outside the town walls. They are black pages in recent history.
Dozens of years were needed to make the town presentable again. Years of toil and labour, building, renovating, rebuilding and restoration.
After the war various developments were accelerated. For Zeeland’s capitol the modern times entailed, amongst other things, rearranging of Municipal boundaries, thus expanding its territory by incorporating the villages Sint Laurens, Nieuw en Sint Joosland and Arnemuiden.
Nowadays the Municipality comprises nearly forty five thousand inhabitants, spread out in extremely varied living surroundings, both rural and urban and modern suburbs surrounding the old town. Within the town walls a mixture of present-day activities, and every now and then, an authentic sphere of the late Middle Ages can be found..
Middelburg is one of the oldest towns in our country, receiving town privileges in 1217, bestowed by Joanna of Flanders and Count William of Holland. In the 13th century Count William II – a stone carving of him can be found above the Gistpoort ( 6 ) –
was an important person for the town.
Amongst other things, he encouraged the considerable expansion of the Abbey. Middelburg grew into a genuine town, especially due to its favourable location near the mouth of the River Scheldt; under the influence of important Flemish trading towns like Antwerp, Gent and Bruges.
The late Middle Ages formed the initial flourishing period of the town and prosperity was brought about – as would be the case later in the Golden Age – through trading and shipping overseas. Many of the large monuments, which still determine the historical character of the town, date from this period.
Middelburg can take pride in possessing one of the most beautiful town halls in the Netherlands ( 7 ) . It is monumental evidence of the strong bond Zeeland had with Flanders during the late Middle Ages. It was from this region the master builders originated. Who lavishly provided the façade with cornices, consoles, and stone foliage. The building is a late, but typical style of Southern Dutch Gothic.
Middle Age architects very rarely saw their impressive buildings completed, as was the case with Andries and Matheus Keldermans. They started building in 1452, with their work only to be finished by their sons.
The famous family of architects has been honoured by having a small street named after the, which leads off from the corner of the Markt and Lange Noordstraat, opposite the Town Hall.
Twenty-five statues of Counts and Countesses of Holland and Zeeland have found a place on the Town Hall façade. The series ended with Charles V and it was only five centuries later, in 1910, that the crowned head of Queen Wilhelmina was added. Her statue , together with Princess Juliana’s, can be found in the gable above the Vleeshal. The Vleeshal, together with the Lakenhal above, formed part of the Town Hall complex. They are no longer of economical use. The one-time Lakenhal is now used as a reception room, a stately environment for representative gatherings of the Town Council, while the Vleeshal, under the same name is utilized as an exhibition area. The Vleeshal and the Kloveniersdoelen ( 8 ) , once the quarters of a national guard and now a temple of New Music, have brought both national and international fame to Middelburg as a centre for modern art. They are two good examples of the way in which current uses are sought for the town’s historical buildings.
This for examples also applies to the picturesque Kuiperspoort, where music education and artistic training are taught.
Furthermore, the Schouwburg, the Minitheater and the Concert en Gehoorzaal offer ample opportunities for the various cultural activities that take place in a thriving club life. The Roosevelt Study centre is situated in the Abbey. With Middelburg functioning as the cultural centre of the province, the Zeeuwse Library ( 9 ) also plays an important role. Amongst other things extensive documentation about the whole province of Zeeland can be found there.

Significant names
“ ‘t Bordeaux Oxhooft” ( the Bordeaux Cask), “Spitsbergen”, “Het Engels Laken” (The English Cloth), “In den Coornsack” (in the Corn Sack), : Here the houses still have names, which clearly indicate where the original owners obtained their wealth from. Similarly, this applies to the street names in the centre. They all tell their own tale: Houtkaai (Wood Quay), Londense Kaai (London Quay), Bierkaai (Beer Quay) , Korendijk (Corn Dyke); those who close their eyes can see the old ships discharging their cargoes. Then there’ is still the Vlasmarkt (Flax Market), the Pottenmarkt (Pottery Market), the Vischmarkt ( Fishmarket) etc. They refer to the time when the town, not more than two hours distance from all Walcheren villages, fulfilled an important central function for the whole island – as administrative centre and a marketplace for the agricultural products from the surrounding countryside. The market held on Thursdays is still the lively main attraction during the week. Functioning as a centre still exists to this very day and can be seen from the varied and extensive shopping potential ( 10 ). The Council tries to pursue a stimulating policy, and the ever active retail dealers ensure that the changing demands of their customers are taken into consideration.

Varied living conditions
Middelburg is internationally known for its restoration procedures. In the seventies the Council acquired the honourable title of European Monument Town > This was due to the years of activity in the field of restoration and town renewal.
Not only were the large monuments restored, but also monumental houses and in some cases, entire streets ( 12 ).It brought back style and harmony to the town centre, making it most agreeable for the visiting stroller and inhabitant alike.
Suburbs dating back to different periods of this century are situated around the old town centre, and in the suburbs building is still taking place. ( 11 ). This is also the case in the town centre where living in a monumental house is not the only possibility.
On the whole Middelburg offers a wide selection of housing; for families and single persons, in all styles and price ranges. In a provincial capitol there is usually a concentration of many Government departments. In Zeeland’s capitol a great deal of employment can indeed be found in the official and administrative sector, and along with this, a certain emphasis is placed
On the provision of services, a consequence of its regional function. Nevertheless the scope for employment is extensive; the agricultural sector is still represented and in addition, various forms of trade and industry.
Several industrial estates are to be found on council territory and in the near vicinity the seaport industry of the Sloe area provides employment for thousands of “Zeeuwen”.
The basis of the policy in Middelburg is to offer elbow room to the 20th and 21st century person. This includes measures to keep the town centre as attractive as possible. Consequently certain street have been restricted to pedestrians only. In and around the town centre spacious parking facilities have been built and that is no unnecessary luxury, especially during the summer months, when thousands of tourists visit the town daily.

Viewed from the water
In past centuries water played an important part in the economical development of the town ( 13 )., but that importance – in particular after the Second World War – is continually diminishing. Yet there is still a group of visitors whose introduction to the town is via the water; international water recreation enthousiasts have discovered Middelburg as an attractive port ( 14 ).
The “Canal through Walcheren” , a connecting waterway is more than a century old. Its construction was a last feat in the age old struggle of retaining a good connection with the open sea; the problem of so many old historical trading towns. Originally the small River Arne, on the Eastern side of Walcheren, provided the connection with the Sloe. However, there was the continuous problem of the river silting up. For the first time in the 16th century a new harbour was constructed, still in this Eastern part. This situation remained until 1815, when a canal was constructed linking Middelburg and Veere. In 1817 King William I was the first person to enter Middelburg’s new harbour in his Yacht.
The present Canal through Walcheren was completed in 1873 and although it still has an important function for various Middelburg firms, the large number of ships can be accounted for in the recreational sector.

Recreation
Where once the stately trading vessels of the East and West India Companies brought exotic valuables ashore, skippers at leisure are now mooring their yachts and in Summer, there is an enormous bustle in the harbour with flags flying from all parts of Europe.
International tourism has discovered Middelburg as a holiday base or as a town for a day’s outing. This also applies to the many holidaying people, staying at the beaches elsewhere in the province, as well as the large number of day-trippers arriving from Belgium, Northern France and England, Miniature Walcheren is an attraction that shouldn’t be missed on such a visit; to view the enormous model of the most important places of interest of Middelburg and the surrounding island, built to scale, in just one glance.
Such a visit is only complete when on one of those summer days the “Ring Riders” are in action. Mounted on their massive “Zeeuwse” horses, they gallop over the path in between the rows of spectators with the purpose of retrieving a small ring with their lance. Ring-riding is often thought to be folklore, but those who ask contestants, will hear that it is very much a living sport (15 ).
On the municipal sports grounds, football, basketball, rugby and baseball are played, as well as participation in athletics or swimming. Even the players of pétanque, or if you prefer, “jeu de boules” have a special lane for playing at their disposal.
All through the year the inhabitants of Middelburg have these attractive advantages on hand, for which hundreds of thousands of tourists, from home or abroad, come to visit the island of Walcheren: beaches, woods, and last but not least Lake Veere, which serves as the centre for the extremely popular windsurfing sport.

And the town itself, of course, with all that takes place within. A beautiful town, a town with a past. A town where it is clear that having appropriate respect for its history is completely different to living in the past. We are living in the 20tth century and are still on our way to the future. For as long as the interests of Middelburg’s present inhabitants remain of prime importance, evidence will be provided daily, that a town a thousand years old can remain young at heart!